This is a power rack review for the Rogue R4 Infinity Rack. I’ve had my R4 for a little over a year now and I figure that’s plenty of time to form an opinion on it. In this review I’ll go over what I fancy about the R-4 and, what I don’t like about it. I’ll cover everything from the rack’s specifications, included equipment, available accessories, price, and hopefully everything in between. First, I’ll briefly explain the difference in the Rogue rack lines and why I chose the R-4.
Last update: December 2017 – minor revisions, pricing updates.
The Infinity Line of Power Racks
Rogue offers four different series of power racks. The R4 is part of the Infinity Series, which uses 2″x3″, 11-gauge steel for the uprights & cross-members, and 5/8″ hardware for bolting the rack together. This is the most popular configuration among Rogue racks and it is pretty much the industry standard at this point as well.
The other three series of racks offered by Rogue include the Echo Series, which uses 2″x2″ square tubing; the Monster Lite Series which uses 3″x3″ steel; and the the Monster Series, which also uses 3″x3″, steel but has beefier 1″ hardware (vs. 5/8″). Rogue used to offer the 7-gauge steel option on the Monster racks, but those days are gone due to lower demand.
The steel and hardware used in the Infinity line is more than tough enough for commercial use and CrossFit affiliates, so it’s certainly more than enough power rack for a garage gym. While the Monster (RM-4) is definitely one hell of a rack, I didn’t even consider buying this version as it starts at $500 more than the Infinity. The extra money wouldn’t have stopped at the initial cost either, the accessories for the Monster’s 3×3 steel to cost more as well. I saw no reason to buy that beefy of a power cage for my garage gym.
2017 update:The RML-490 is a viable alternative to the R-4. The price difference is almost nil now, and there are even color options with the RML-490C. The RMLs are beefier, more stable both with and without stabilizers, and they just resonate a certain level savageness. I can see going with a 490C over an R-4 these days.
Infinity & R-4 Specifications
Of all the Infinity power racks available (R-3, R-4, and R-6) the R-4 is probably the best rack for a garage or home gym if you have the space for it. If you need something with a smaller footprint though the R-3 is just as good of an option. The R-6 is a bit excessive for a garage gym, plus I believe that if you can afford to buy the R-6 and have ample space for it that you should opt for the RML-690 instead.
All Infinity racks have the same 43″ opening. The R-4 is also 43″ from front to back, making it a square unit. The R-3 can be purchased in either a 24″ or 30″ depth; the 30″ being a nice compromise between maybe too much space, and not enough space. The R-6 is basically an R-4 with the back half of an R-3. As you probably know, the rear uprights of the R-6 are for plate and accessory storage.
Other than bragging rights, the only true benefit to owning the R-6 over the 4 is the storage capabilities. The lifting area of the R-6 is identical; it’s the same height, width, and uses the same hardware and accessories. I didn’t go with the R-6 both because of the higher price and the additional floor space the rack occupies. That said, if you have both the cash and the floor space for it then by all means have at that 6.
In any case since this power rack review is about the R-4, I will now focus on that model.
Like most power racks this one is meant to be anchored to the ground for stability. Because of that, the rack has feet that extend out past the uprights giving it a footprint of 51″ wide by 53″ deep. The dimensions inside the uprights is 43″ x 43″ square. This is the area that you have to enter the rack and the lateral space for the barbell to travel inside the rack.
The uprights themselves are 90″ tall and the rack has two pull-up bars; one in the front and a fat/skinny bar in the back. The total weight of the rack before any add-ons is roughly 250 pounds. The only accessories it comes with are the pin & pipe safety system, 4 band pegs, and 2 j-cups. The price before any accessories is $960 before shipping.
Rogue R-4 Review – Pros
First of all, I do love this rack. There are a few things I would have done differently though, and I will address those, but let me tell you why this rack is better than a lot of other racks on the market; especially in this price range.
- Westside hole pattern – Having 1″ holes through the bench region is awesome. Most racks have the same 2″ hole pattern from top to bottom and that will almost always lead to your safety bar either being too low or too high. Westside is a must.
- Accessories – The Infinity racks have sooooo many accessories available. I own a lot of them already and have more to buy. Some of the lesser power racks have only one or two accessories and that blows.
- Black on black – I think the Rogue black theme is just awesome looking. I know some of the commercial manufacturers (including even Rogue now) offer all colors under the sun, but you pay for that. Also Rogue’s black powder coat is extremely resilient. It’s not an easy task to chip away at it.
- J-cups – The J-cups are a simple but strong design, and Rogue has taken extra steps to refine the edges and keep them clean and burr-free. They are easy to use, and the UHMW is thick.
- Stability – The R-4 is sturdy as hell when it’s anchored down. You can’t rattle the thing. You’ll feel very confident and safe within this rack.
2017 update: technically I modified my R-4 to an R-3 of sorts, but I retained my original R-4 uprights, J-cups, and horizontal crossbars. Nearly six years out I have no issue with missing powder coat or rust and the UHMW on my J-cups is still at about 80% of original thickness where the bar sits, and I’d wager 95% everywhere else. Rogue does it right.
Infinity Rack Accessories
There are countless accessories available for the R-4. I have a number of them already and there is not a one that I regret buying. Here are some of the accessories that I own and use – you can see the entire list of available accessories here. Note: remember that each line of racks uses its own accessories.
-Matador for Rogue R4 Power Rack
The Matador was one of the first accessories I purchased for my R4 power rack. It’s only like $83. It’s very simple to attach to the rack and very simple to take off. Boom, dip station.
-Multi Grip Crossmember
I bought this because you can do any pull-up/chin-up you can imagine from it. I also hoped that it would make my rack tall enough for me to hang without touching the ground. It did not.
-Rogue Double Landmine
The Landmine attachment is available as a single landmine or a double like the one pictured. So easy to attach. They are $95 for the single or $165 for the double.
Rogue R-4 Review – Cons
- Those Default spotters – I’ve said it time and time again; pipe and pin safety systems are junk. They are the default for the Rogue racks and the default for most other racks as well. Stop making these things please. They are cumbersome, cheap, and they take too much time to set up in between lifts. I paid the extra money for the spotter arms I’d say about a month out. I wish I could have swapped them out at the time of purchase & saved a few bucks.
- Stabilizer – This is not included by default but you’ll want it if you’re unwilling or unable to anchor the rack to the ground. I didn’t anchor mine right away, but when I discovered how much of a pain in the ass having that stabilizer was, I promptly anchored the rack and removed it. Anchor the thing, it feels like a rock once it’s anchored and it’s a pretty simple process.
What I would have done differently
Rogue offers uprights in different heights than what the racks come standard with (90″). It never occurred to me that my rack may not be tall enough to hang from the pull-up bar and not have my feet on the ground. Turns out, I need at least another six inches to free hang. If you are going to buy a power rack and you are anywhere near 6 feet tall, either accept that you won’t be able to free hang, or buy the 9 foot uprights.
It should go without saying that you should measure your ceiling height. Not everyone has vaulted ceilings, and older homes have only 8′ ceilings. You can find the 9′ uprights here. Rogue will work with you if you buy these at the time you buy the rack itself so be sure and call them before you order.
R-4 Power Rack Review – Summary
I think that this is a badass power rack. The couple issues I addressed are nothing. Also it’s worth pointing out that this rack I just called “short” for me is actually taller than the average power rack on the market – so there’s that. Only when you go full commercial do you see 8′ and 9′ racks as standard equipment.
I do not regret buying this rack at all, nor any of the accessories I’ve purchased in the last year. I’ve always had great experiences with Rogue when I’ve need support, had questions, and even when I had to do a return once. Even if the Infinity R-4 Rack isn’t for you because of space limitations (or maybe because you want something even bigger!), I’m sure Rogue has a rack you’ll be excited about.
If you aren’t sure you can take just my word for it, read the reviews at Rogue. Every single rack in the Infinity line has a perfect 5-star review. You can read the reviews on the product pages, of course.Check out the Rogue R4 yourself
Further Reading / Videos:
For those of you interested in the differences in the power rack product lines at Rogue and didn’t like my explanation, check out this video:
Check out this video to see the differences of the R3 and R4
I was wondering what your take on the RML-390F VS R4 would be. It seems like you get more bang for your buck with the RML-390F if you are willing to go with 30in depth vs 43in, but also maybe slightly less tiny than the R3 dimensions in that regard. I’m 5’8″ 135lbs so I’m thinking that might work for me, although I suppose it might not be the greatest option if I were 6’4″!
Hey Dylan, well the RML-390F (the flat foot) has the same working dimensions as the R3, but a bigger footprint because of extended feet. Honestly, the whole issue of which rack to buy is more of space issue than anything else. Even at 6’4″ I could make any of the 3’s work for me, I just didn’t have to. Does anyone need 43″ inches between front and back uprights? Probably not. The space is nice, but not at all necessary. And 3×3 vs 2×3 is just whatever. Either steel configuration could be thrown in a commercial gym and last forever.
The benefit of the RML-390F over the R3 is supposed to be that it doesn’t require anchoring. Then you have the RM-390F that has those giant rubber feet. The one thing I would keep in mind with going with RML over the Infinity (R3) is the accessory choices and prices. The 2″x3″ I believe has more options, and lower prices.
Does that help at all?
I had read it over and over in your previous posts, but I completely forgot the accessories cost more or might be limited with the 2X3. I guess that means it will probably more a case of do I have the extra couple hundred bucks for the R4 or not since there is plenty of room for either. Thanks for the comment/help!
Yeah I mean you might take a look at the accessories for Monster Lite and Infinity and see if the price differences bother you (it’s not like a huge difference usually), or make sure the accessories you want exist for the version you’re leaning towards. All the core accessories are there for both; landmines, matador, chin-bars, etc. Also make sure whatever you want has Westside hole spacing if you care about that. I know that’s an important feature to me and Monsters don’t have it, I think most Monster Lite does though.
I’m in the process of building a basement gym and want to add this power rack to the room but my ceilings are only 8 ft high. I know thats a tight squeeze, but It seems like the pull up bar is at a few inches below the peak of the cage (90 in). Do you think I could still do pull ups?
Daniel, if your ceiling is exactly 8 feet high, you will have exactly 8″ from the top of the pull-up bar to your ceiling. That’s cutting it pretty close. However, unless the rack has changed since I bought it (and I doubt that it has), you can actually install that pull-up bar lower in 2″ increments. Look at the top picture of the full rack (not the article title picture) and you can see what I mean. If you don’t mind that sitting a little lower than the standard height, you can give yourself all the room you need.
Love the site! I just finished my flooring (stall mats) using your guide as reference and couldn’t be happier. Now I’m looking at the R4 based on your recommendation and was wondering if you could provide a little more info on the stabilizer(s)? Due to my post tension slab in my garage I can only drill down about 2 inches into the concrete. I know you swear by anchoring in your article (which is what I want to do), but can you shed some additional light on how bad the stabilizer is? …and/or can you let me know how deep the concrete anchors had to be drilled in?
Thanks in advance.
I used the stabilizer on mine for about a month I think before I couldn’t take it anymore. It was in the way when getting under the bar for back squats, and it was absolutely in the way when I went to go bench. I actually had to position the bench outside of the rack but as close to the stabilizer as possible… it wasn’t ideal.
The anchors 3/8 x 3″, but perhaps you could find 3/8″ in a shorter variety at the hardware store. I don’t really know what the absolute shortest you could go and still expect them to hold is though. It might be worth it to shoot Rogue an email and ask them since they’ve no doubt done hundreds of installations for events and affiliates and probably had to work around their share of things.
Some people also bolt down on to a platform rather than the floor, but that would obviously require you to build out a platform, and I doubt that that would be the simplest solution.
Thanks a lot. I reached out to Rogue and they got back to me – super quickly I might add. They suggested that when anchoring to the ground I shouldn’t use anything shorter than the 3″ anchors. However, as you suggested, they also recommended I build a platform and anchor it 0to that instead. I’ve been doing a little homework on figuring out the optimal way to build one, but will take any additional advice you (or others) have? I think I am going to go 8×8 with 2ft stall mats on either side of the top layer.
Thanks again. I really appreciate the rapid responses you’ve provided.
Rogue is pretty good about getting back to people, and that’s good to know about the suggested length of the anchor. As far as platforms, I haven’t built one personally, but I’ve seen half a dozen different DIY guides and it looks pretty simple. I’m sure you can customize the size of it fairly easily so that you have however much platform you want under the rack, and then however much platform in front of the rack for your lifts outside the rack. Generally it looks like people build the section for under the rack at the exact dimensions of the racks footprint, then put the 8×8 or sometimes 8×6 out in front.
Great review and website. A few questions for you: 1. Did you consider the W-4 Garage rack? 2. Have you used rings on the R-4? 3. Any experience with the GHD that attaches to the rack? I’m leaning heavily towards the R-4 as it seems to have more options. I also don’t want to install a ceiling/wall pull up bar for rings. Thanks!
Thanks Mike, I didn’t personally because it’s a much taller unit, but if it fits in your garage, it’s a nice alternative to the power racks. I prefer to have the back uprights of a power rack so that I can use spotter arms inside the rack, but all the same things could be done outside the rack with arms on the W4. I hung rings temporarily from my R4, but I did buy the ring hanger. I’m 6’4″, so I needed it as high as I could get it. The R4 pull up bar just wasn’t tall enough for me. I think the W4 is like 18″ higher than the R4, so while I personally prefer the racks, it may be good for you assuming your ceiling is high enough.
In terms of the GHD, I actually have never seen the rack mounted Echo GHD. It has really good reviews, so it must work pretty well. Full-size GHD’s are pretty big, but I don’t think the Echo offers all that much in the way of space savings or even that much in price after you buy the box to justify all the extra work involved in getting it set up and ready to be used. That’s just my opinion though, and like I said, people must like it because people can be real turds when it comes to leaving reviews, and the reviews look good.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated! The ring hanger is a great idea. As many hours as I’ve been on Rogue’s site, I never noticed it. Perhaps I’ll call Rogue and see if they can do 2 108″ uprights with the R4. Again, many thanks!
They can, and they will. You can even see them under 2×3 accessories I believe.
“Does anyone need 43″ inches between front and back uprights?” No I guess they don’t however I have an older rack from NY Barbell with a saw tooth that runs up and down the frame instead of J-hooks and I’m always bumping into them. I’m like to upgrade to something a depth of > 30″ but less than 43″. I’m pretty short too at 5’6″ but I’d like the extra room. Also and this might be a noob question but why are the supports 43″ apart I’d rather have it a bit tighter like 40″ so the bar has more tolerance room side to side. Maybe what I’m after is a custom designed rack but that’s a huge hassle so I’m thinking of up grading to a R-4 unless you have suggestions. I’m also a very young 55, and only been training since Sept 2014. Thanks for the great reviews and site.
Hey Paul, the answer is no, they don’t need 43″. Rogue’s R3 can be ordered with either 24″ or 30″ cross-members, giving you either a 30″ or 36″ deep rack. It’s funny you ask this, I am expecting a package today from Rogue… I ordered the R3 cross-members for my R4; I’m officially shortening my rack to make some more room. The R4 is a nice rack, and I’ve had it for three years now and have loved it, but it is bigger than I need since I use spotter arms vs the pin safeties anyway. And yea, the pre-set saw teeth cups are really annoying =p
Btw, I’m sure that Rogue would fabricate any size cross-members you wanted. I’m not sure how they charge for custom, but doesn’t hurt to ask if you want something in between the 30″ and 43″.
Thanks so much for the reply. I’ll save up my pennies and see if they can set me up with a custom rig.
Can you post a picture of the R4 with the spotter arms as i am having trouble visualising how that would fit together.
There’s a picture at the end of this article: https://www.garage-gyms.com/working-with-stall-mats-garage-gym/
I’m considering purchasing a power rack, R3 or R4. I noticed how you put the spotter arms in instead of the metal posts. What then distinguished the rack from say a squat stand like the S2?
I used the spotter arms inside the R4 because fiddling with those 50″ long pin and pipe safeties was a pain in the rear. I have since moved down to the R3 because the R4 is just too big for not having an storage capabilities. Waste of space, at least in my garage. I wouldn’t have switched if I had more space for it though.
I still think that half racks are a better use of space since they have on-board plate storage without taking up any more space than the R4 does. The exception is for guys squatting 800 pounds and/or wanting to attach a monolift attachment.
Oh, and with the R3; especially the 24″ model, the pin and pipe is not big deal. No spotter arms for that. It’s just the R4 and R6 with so much space between uprights. Not fun lining up that pin.
I want to buy the rogue fitness rml 390f rack but I worry about kipping pullups cause I believe it will move-slide-.what’s your opinion and what do you believe about flat foot racks
Yeah it’ll probably shift a little. It’s got such a small footprint for a rack that doesn’t bolt down. I think flat footed racks are more for benching/squatting type lifts for those who absolutely cannot anchor down the rack. I think I’ve seen that on some of Rogue’s rack descriptions that they recommend anchored racks for kips. That said, the more you weigh it down, the less it’ll slide around.
With my first rack, I avoided anchoring for a couple months because I didn’t want to deal with it, but eventually I bolted it down. Pull ups even move racks, so does re-racking a bar, and dips. If I couldn’t anchor something for some reason, I’d probably personally go with something like the Monster squat stands (or similar). Huge rubber feet, large footprint, and centered pull-up bar.
Just bought a house after renting for ages. I have no experience with mounting to wall or mounting to concrete garage floor. I’ve been debating whether to go with R3 fold back or R4 power rack. Do you have any opinion on what causes less damage to house once removed? Basically what is easier to patch up if I ended up selling house. Thank you for time.
Bill it’s sort of a matter of opinion. A wall mounted rack is going to have some pretty big holes in the wall from the lag bolts. Drywall can always be patched though. Anchoring a rack down will create some fairly large holes in the foundation, but that too can be patched/filled. Technically you don’t have to drill into either – you can mount an R4 to a platform, or you can look at something like the HR-2. If the foldaway racks meet your needs, then a squat stand or half rack will as well because folding racks don’t really offer much in the way of accessory options anyway.
Great site! Very comprehensive, informational and very helpful. Based on your reviews on the R4, it’s looking pretty solid and attractive but I couldn’t help but notice that it is desperately lacking storage horns.
Can these be fitted as additional accessories?
You can add them, but they get in the way. Storage horns and generally reserved for power racks with a third pair of uprights, and half racks.
I just have enough space for a 90″ Rack. I’m 5’8″ and i would like to know if the bar is high enough for me to do pull-ups with out having to bend my knees, or get in an awkward form. Thanks man!
You should be able to. You’re 68″ tall and the pull-up bar is usually a couple inches lower than the total height of the rack, so we’ll say 88″ off the ground. That’s 20″ of clearance over your head, and while your arms are going to be longer than 20″, you’ll see if you put your hands above your head that most of your upper arms are still below the top of your head. Even if you have long arms for your height and your feet can technically touch the ground, it won’t be by much.
Technically you can easily confirm this simply by getting a friend to measure your total height while reaching both arms above your head in roughly the same width as you’d take for a pull-up.
Thanks for all your reviews and comments. I have a question about power racks: I’m seriously considering buying one of Rogue’s racks (made in U.S.A.). However, I came across the Rep Fitness website and looked at their CPR1 power rack. It looks like a great rack and comes with a lot of the accessories that other companies like Rogue charge quiet a bit for (like the monkey bar, etc.). It seems to be a clone of the Rogue Monster racks. Also, one thing I really liked about the CPR1 is that it has the laser cut numbering which makes it a lot easier/quicker to change the height of the J-cups and spotter safeties. The only way to get this in a Rogue rack is to get one of the Monster racks (quiet a bit more expensive). It doesn’t come with the westside 1″ spacing, just standard 2″, but to me the hole numbering might be more important than the 1″hole spacing. I haven’t found hardly any reviews about the CPR1 and that’s why I’m writing to you to get your view on it. I think it is made in China, not USA. So that’s one issue. Thanks for your help.
Thank you, Wes. This Rep model is actually closer to a Monster Lite. Based on depth I’d say it’s basically an RML-3 ($755+). You do get that laser numbering with the Rep in that $799, but like you said you lose the Westside spacing. You may not actually care for the 1″ spacing, but to a lot of us that alone seals the deal. It can make a huge difference on being able to bring the bar all the way to your chest rather than having to stop short to avoid hitting the spotters. I may wish my rack had numbering, but I would never be happy with 2″ spacing (and to think some have 3-4″ spacing!)
There are a lot of Rogue knock-offs, and almost all of them are imported. This one does look better than a lot of them, but then again the price difference is negligible really, unlike the others who tend to cut the price down by 40% or more. You will probably notice subtle differences in overall quality and refinement compared to a Rogue rack, as that is typical of imported racks, but if you haven’t been using an American rack you wouldn’t know what you were missing anyway. End of the day, even cheap racks get the job done so long as they aren’t made with like 14-gauge steel. You have to weigh the value of Westside spacing, USA-made, accessory options (for the future as well), price (including shipping), the laser numbers, and so forth.
Thank you, for all the information. It has really helped me to make my mind up. I’m going with a Rogue rack. I know I’ll regret it later if I don’t.
Thanks again for your time.
I recently installed my RML-390C 30 inch version in my basement. When we built the house we had 9 ft ceilings factored into the basement foundation. This rack is super stable bolted to the concrete floor. I have the multi grip cross member which is 96 inches from the floor allowing me do full extension pull ups. I also ordered a 2nd set of j hooks and substituted the safety pins for the safety straps. I have the straps set up for squats, etc inside the cage and mounted the spotter arms outside and have the second set of j-hooks outside for benching. I also find the spotter arms useful for rows. The westside hole spacing is fabulous. I could probably charge gym membership fees now that my son and his buddies come to my house to work out since my rack is better than what the had at their gym. Anyway your articles regarding racks and barbells have been a huge help in selecting the right equipment and accessories. Next purchase will likely be bumper plates. I was looking at the Vulcan plates.
Thanks for your kind words. I’m glad you’ve found the site helpful!
And yeah that’s a very nice rack – especially with all your upgrades. Very envious of a 9′ basement too (sadly we don’t get basements here in Central Texas. Damn limestone.) The Vulcans are great plates. Good pricing, hooked inserts, thin profile. Can’t go wrong inside their free shipping zones for plates.
Vulcan plates it will be….What are your thoughts on the Spud pully system for lats, rows, etc? It appears this is the only rack attachment option Rogue lists on their web site.
We use one here at the gym. I’ve reviewed it a couple times. Well, reviewed it once, then discussed repairing and maintaining it, and then even touched on it again more recently. It’s a great buy, and it lasts, but it is a wearable product. Still worth $99 though for sure. Oh I’ve got another article about using spotter arms to convert a rack to a lat machine with it.
It takes a few parts, but it works! I’m actually renovating mine to have an actual pad here soon. I’m so behind though haha
Having a hard time choosing between the r4 and rml-490 other than the bolt size I don’t see a big difference
RML is 3″x3″ steel whereas the Infinity racks like the R-4 are 2″x3″. Both use 5/8″ holes for accessories and hardware but nothing is cross-compatible because of the steel size difference. The RMLs are just beefier and only moderately more expensive (accessories tend to cost more too though). I’d go RML personally. The heavier duty the rack is (with Rogue) the more accessory options you have. Monster racks are even better yet (well, beefier) but the price is a bit much for a home gym in most cases. Not only because of the rack cost but the accessories are a lot more expensive than the Rs and RMLs