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Power Rack Review – Rogue R4 Infinity Power Rack

Rogue R-4 Power Rack Review

This is a power rack review for the Rogue R4 Infinity Rack. I’ve had my R4 for a little over a year now and I figure that’s plenty of time to form an opinion on it. I’ll go over what I like about the R4 and what I don’t like about it. I’ll cover everything from the rack’s specifications, included equipment, available accessories, price and hopefully everything in between. First, I’ll briefly explain the difference in the Rogue rack lines and why I chose the R4.

The Infinity Line of Power Racks

Rogue offers four series of power racks. The R4 is part of the Infinity family which uses 2″x3″ 11 gauge steel for the uprights & cross-members, and 5/8″ hardware for bolting the rack together. This is the most popular configuration among Rogue racks and it is pretty much the industry standard as well.

The other series offered by Rogue are the Echo (2″x2″ steel), the Monster Lite (3″x3″ steel) and the Monster (3″x3″ steel with beefy 1″ hardware – also available in 7 gauge steel).

Rogue R4 Power Rack

The Rogue R4 Power Rack – Comes with a pair of J-cups, spotter pipes, and four band pegs. The rear stabilizer is optional and the bar and bumpers are not included, sorry.

The steel and hardware used in the Infinity line is more than tough enough for commercial use and Crossfit affiliates, so it’s certainly more than enough power rack for a garage gym. While the Monster R4 is definitely one hell of a rack, I didn’t even consider buying this version as it starts at $500 more than the Infinity version. The extra money wouldn’t have stopped at the initial cost either, the accessories for the Monster’s 3×3 steel are going to cost more as well. I saw no reason to buy that beefy of a power cage for my garage gym.

Infinity & R4 Specifications

Of all the Infinity power racks available (R3, R4, and R6) the R4 is probably the best rack for a garage or home gym. I feel that the R3 is too narrow and compact and I think the R6 is just too big for most garages. Since they all have the same 43″ rack opening, the only real difference is in the depth of the racks.

The R3 depth is small with only 24″ between the front and back uprights – not a lot of wiggle room. The R4 has 43″ between the front and back uprights – which is just right in my opinion. The R6 is basically an R3 and R4 merged together, as it has 6 total uprights. The rear uprights are for plate storage as you can see in the image below.

Power rack review - Side by side comparison of the Rogue R-4 and R-6

Side-by-side Comparison: Rogue R4 (left) and R6 (right). The R3 (not pictured) is roughly the depth of the rear and middle uprights of the R6. I felt the R3 was just too compact and I wasn’t so limited on space that I needed to seriously consider it.

Other than bragging rights, the only true benefit to owning the R6 over the R4 is the storage capabilities. The lifting area of the R6 is identical to the R4. It’s the same height, width, and uses the same hardware and accessories. I didn’t go with the R6 both because of the increased price and the additional floor space the rack occupies. However, if you have the cash and the floor space for it feel free to check it out.

In any case, since this power rack review is about the R4, I will now focus on that model.

Like most power racks, this rack is meant to be anchored to the ground for stability. Because of that, the rack has feet that extend out past the uprights giving it a total footprint of 51″x53″. The dimensions inside the uprights is 43″x43″… this is the space you have to enter the rack and the lateral space for the barbell to travel inside the rack.

The uprights themselves are 90″ tall and the rack has two pull-up bars; one in the front and a fat/skinny bar in the back. The total weight of the rack before any add-ons is about 250 pounds. The only accessories it comes with are the pin/pipe safety system, 4 band pegs, and 2 j-cups. The price before any accessories is $960 and this does include free shipping.

R4 Fat/Skinny Pull-up bar

The fat / skinny pull-up bar for the back side of the R4 Power Rack comes standard.

The Pros of the R4

First of all, I love this rack. There are a few things I would have done differently and I will address those, but let me tell you why this rack is better than a lot of other racks on the market; especially in this price range.

  • Westside hole pattern – Having 1″ holes through the bench region is awesome. Most racks have the same 2″ hole pattern from top to bottom and that will almost always lead to your safety bar either being too low or too high. High five to Rogue for going with the Westside.
  • Accessories – The Infinity racks have sooooo many accessories available. I own a lot of them already and have more to buy. Some of the lesser power racks have only one or two accessories and that blows. From dip stations to additional pull-up bars, landmines, and ways to attach and hang things, Rogue has thought of everything in the way of add-ons.
  • Black on black – I think the Rogue black theme is just awesome looking. I know some of the commercial manufacturers offer all colors under the sun, but you pay for that. If I’m not going to get a color choice, at least it’s black. Also their black coating stays on the metal. It doesn’t flake off.
  • J-cups – I really like how easy the j-cups are to get on and off the rack. Additionally, they have the thick black plastic that prevents our Olympic bars from getting scratched and damaged when racking.
  • Stability – This thing is sturdy as hell when it’s anchored down. You can’t rattle the thing. Once you see what it’s like bolted to the ground, you’ll think it was silly of you to wish you had the Monster version for all that extra money. It would have been serious overkill.

Infinity Rack Accessories

There are countless accessories available for the R4. I have a number of them already and there is not a one that I regret buying. Here are some of the accessories I have used and own. You can see the entire list of available accessories here.

 Rogue Safety Spotter Arms

-Spotter Arms for R4 Power Rack

The Rogue R4 comes with a pin and pipe safety system standard. Do yourself a favor and replace this when you order. The pin and pipe is a hassle and a half and I hated it the first time I used it. Rogue isn’t the only company to use pin and pipe so check for this no matter what you end up with.

 Rogue Matador dip Station for 2x3 power racks

-Matador for Rogue R4 Power Rack

The Matador was one of the first accessories I purchased for my R4 power rack. It’s only like $83. It’s very simple to attach to the rack and very simple to take off. Boom, dip station.

 Rogue Multi-Grip Crossmember for 2x3 Power Racks

-Multi Grip Crossmember

I bought this because you can do any pull-up/chin-up you can imagine from it. I also hoped that it would make my rack tall enough for me to hang without touching the ground. It did not.

 Rogue Landmines for the R4 Power Rack

-Rogue Double Landmine

The Landmine attachment is available as a single landmine or a double like the one pictured. So easy to attach. They are $95 for the single or $165 for the double.

The Cons of the R4

I need to mention that I’m a tall guy. I’m 6’4″ so some of my problems with this rack may not be your problems. However, if you are tall like me, pay attention to this section. Here are my issues with the R4 (not all height related).

  • Rack width – I could stand to have one more inch between uprights, maybe two. A half inch or so over on each side would still leave plenty of room to rack the barbell but would make all the difference in the world to me. Why? Well if I don’t get perfectly centered with my bench (I mean literally perfectly 100% OCD centered) I can brush my elbows on the spotter arms during bench presses and that’s very distracting.
  • Default spotters – I’ve said it time and time again; pipe and pin safety systems are junk. They are the default for the Rogue racks and the default for most other rack builders as well. Stop making these things please. They are cumbersome, cheap, and take too much time to set up in between lifts. I paid the extra money for the spotter arms about a month out, but I wish I could have swapped them out at the time of purchase and saved a few bucks.
  • Stabilizer – This isn’t included with the rack by default, but you need it if you’re not planning to anchor the rack to the ground. I didn’t anchor mine right away, but when I discovered how much of a pain in the ass having that stabilizer was, I promptly anchored the rack and removed it. Anchor the thing, it feels like a rock once it’s anchored and it’s a pretty simple process.
my anchored r-4 power rack

Here is one of the feet of my R4 anchored to the foundation with the stall mats cut out around it. It was very simple to do, took 30 minutes maybe. You will not believe how sturdy an anchored rack is even with only 2 bolts per foot.

What I would have done differently

Rogue offers uprights in different heights than what the racks come standard with (90″). It never occurred to me that I may not be tall enough to hang from the pull-up bar and not have my feet on the ground. Turns out, I need at least another six inches to free hang. If you are going to buy a power rack and you are anywhere near 6 feet tall, either accept you won’t be able to free hang or buy the 9 foot uprights at least for the front two uprights.

It should go without saying that you should measure your ceiling height. Not everyone has vaulted ceilings and older homes have only 8 foot ceilings. You can find the 9′ uprights here. Rogue will work with you if you buy these at the time you buy the rack itself so be sure and call them before you order.

R4 Power Rack Review Summary

I think that this is a badass power rack. Most the issues I have with it have everything to do with my height and not Rogue or the rack itself. Matter of fact, after I did my power rack shopping guide, I discovered that this rack is slightly taller than most other racks of this caliber. Only when you buy full commercial racks do you start finding power racks that are over 8′ tall.

I do not regret buying this rack at all, nor any of the accessories I’ve purchased in the last year. I’ve always had great experiences with Rogue when I’ve need support, had questions, and even when I had to do a return once. Even if the R4 isn’t for you because of space limitations (or maybe because you want something even bigger!), I’m sure Rogue has a rack you’ll be excited about.

If you aren’t sure you can take just my word for it, read the reviews at Rogue. Every single rack in the Infinity line has a perfect 5-star review. You can read the reviews on the product pages, of course. Here is the link to that page.

Check out the Rogue R4 yourself

Further Reading / Videos:

For those of you interested in the differences in the power rack product lines at Rogue, check out this video here:

Check out this video to see the differences of the R3 and R4

adiPower Weightlifting Shoes by Adidas

{ 29 comments… add one }
  • Dylan Sinclair December 15, 2014, 11:21 pm

    I was wondering what your take on the RML-390F VS R4 would be. It seems like you get more bang for your buck with the RML-390F if you are willing to go with 30in depth vs 43in, but also maybe slightly less tiny than the R3 dimensions in that regard. I’m 5’8″ 135lbs so I’m thinking that might work for me, although I suppose it might not be the greatest option if I were 6’4″!

  • jburgeson December 15, 2014, 11:50 pm

    Hey Dylan, well the RML-390F (the flat foot) has the same working dimensions as the R3, but a bigger footprint because of extended feet. Honestly, the whole issue of which rack to buy is more of space issue than anything else. Even at 6’4″ I could make any of the 3’s work for me, I just didn’t have to. Does anyone need 43″ inches between front and back uprights? Probably not. The space is nice, but not at all necessary. And 3×3 vs 2×3 is just whatever. Either steel configuration could be thrown in a commercial gym and last forever.

    The benefit of the RML-390F over the R3 is supposed to be that it doesn’t require anchoring. Then you have the RM-390F that has those giant rubber feet. The one thing I would keep in mind with going with RML over the Infinity (R3) is the accessory choices and prices. The 2″x3″ I believe has more options, and lower prices.

    Does that help at all?

    • Dylan Sinclair December 16, 2014, 12:01 am

      I had read it over and over in your previous posts, but I completely forgot the accessories cost more or might be limited with the 2X3. I guess that means it will probably more a case of do I have the extra couple hundred bucks for the R4 or not since there is plenty of room for either. Thanks for the comment/help!

      • jburgeson December 16, 2014, 12:07 am

        Yeah I mean you might take a look at the accessories for Monster Lite and Infinity and see if the price differences bother you (it’s not like a huge difference usually), or make sure the accessories you want exist for the version you’re leaning towards. All the core accessories are there for both; landmines, matador, chin-bars, etc. Also make sure whatever you want has Westside hole spacing if you care about that. I know that’s an important feature to me and Monsters don’t have it, I think most Monster Lite does though.

  • Daniel December 30, 2014, 9:03 pm

    I’m in the process of building a basement gym and want to add this power rack to the room but my ceilings are only 8 ft high. I know thats a tight squeeze, but It seems like the pull up bar is at a few inches below the peak of the cage (90 in). Do you think I could still do pull ups?

    • jburgeson December 30, 2014, 9:52 pm

      Daniel, if your ceiling is exactly 8 feet high, you will have exactly 8″ from the top of the pull-up bar to your ceiling. That’s cutting it pretty close. However, unless the rack has changed since I bought it (and I doubt that it has), you can actually install that pull-up bar lower in 2″ increments. Look at the top picture of the full rack (not the article title picture) and you can see what I mean. If you don’t mind that sitting a little lower than the standard height, you can give yourself all the room you need.

  • molsen January 5, 2015, 8:41 pm

    Love the site! I just finished my flooring (stall mats) using your guide as reference and couldn’t be happier. Now I’m looking at the R4 based on your recommendation and was wondering if you could provide a little more info on the stabilizer(s)? Due to my post tension slab in my garage I can only drill down about 2 inches into the concrete. I know you swear by anchoring in your article (which is what I want to do), but can you shed some additional light on how bad the stabilizer is? …and/or can you let me know how deep the concrete anchors had to be drilled in?
    Thanks in advance.

    • jburgeson January 5, 2015, 9:12 pm

      I used the stabilizer on mine for about a month I think before I couldn’t take it anymore. It was in the way when getting under the bar for back squats, and it was absolutely in the way when I went to go bench. I actually had to position the bench outside of the rack but as close to the stabilizer as possible… it wasn’t ideal.

      The anchors 3/8 x 3″, but perhaps you could find 3/8″ in a shorter variety at the hardware store. I don’t really know what the absolute shortest you could go and still expect them to hold is though. It might be worth it to shoot Rogue an email and ask them since they’ve no doubt done hundreds of installations for events and affiliates and probably had to work around their share of things.

      Some people also bolt down on to a platform rather than the floor, but that would obviously require you to build out a platform, and I doubt that that would be the simplest solution.

      • molsen January 6, 2015, 11:03 pm

        Thanks a lot. I reached out to Rogue and they got back to me – super quickly I might add. They suggested that when anchoring to the ground I shouldn’t use anything shorter than the 3″ anchors. However, as you suggested, they also recommended I build a platform and anchor it 0to that instead. I’ve been doing a little homework on figuring out the optimal way to build one, but will take any additional advice you (or others) have? I think I am going to go 8×8 with 2ft stall mats on either side of the top layer.

        Thanks again. I really appreciate the rapid responses you’ve provided.

        • jburgeson January 7, 2015, 9:30 am

          Rogue is pretty good about getting back to people, and that’s good to know about the suggested length of the anchor. As far as platforms, I haven’t built one personally, but I’ve seen half a dozen different DIY guides and it looks pretty simple. I’m sure you can customize the size of it fairly easily so that you have however much platform you want under the rack, and then however much platform in front of the rack for your lifts outside the rack. Generally it looks like people build the section for under the rack at the exact dimensions of the racks footprint, then put the 8×8 or sometimes 8×6 out in front.

  • Mike January 25, 2015, 1:11 pm

    Great review and website. A few questions for you: 1. Did you consider the W-4 Garage rack? 2. Have you used rings on the R-4? 3. Any experience with the GHD that attaches to the rack? I’m leaning heavily towards the R-4 as it seems to have more options. I also don’t want to install a ceiling/wall pull up bar for rings. Thanks!

    • jburgeson January 25, 2015, 2:22 pm

      Thanks Mike, I didn’t personally because it’s a much taller unit, but if it fits in your garage, it’s a nice alternative to the power racks. I prefer to have the back uprights of a power rack so that I can use spotter arms inside the rack, but all the same things could be done outside the rack with arms on the W4. I hung rings temporarily from my R4, but I did buy the ring hanger. I’m 6’4″, so I needed it as high as I could get it. The R4 pull up bar just wasn’t tall enough for me. I think the W4 is like 18″ higher than the R4, so while I personally prefer the racks, it may be good for you assuming your ceiling is high enough.

      In terms of the GHD, I actually have never seen the rack mounted Echo GHD. It has really good reviews, so it must work pretty well. Full-size GHD’s are pretty big, but I don’t think the Echo offers all that much in the way of space savings or even that much in price after you buy the box to justify all the extra work involved in getting it set up and ready to be used. That’s just my opinion though, and like I said, people must like it because people can be real turds when it comes to leaving reviews, and the reviews look good.

      • Mike January 25, 2015, 3:02 pm

        Thanks for the advice, much appreciated! The ring hanger is a great idea. As many hours as I’ve been on Rogue’s site, I never noticed it. Perhaps I’ll call Rogue and see if they can do 2 108″ uprights with the R4. Again, many thanks!

        • jburgeson January 25, 2015, 3:04 pm

          They can, and they will. You can even see them under 2×3 accessories I believe.

  • Paul February 5, 2015, 1:01 pm

    “Does anyone need 43″ inches between front and back uprights?” No I guess they don’t however I have an older rack from NY Barbell with a saw tooth that runs up and down the frame instead of J-hooks and I’m always bumping into them. I’m like to upgrade to something a depth of > 30″ but less than 43″. I’m pretty short too at 5’6″ but I’d like the extra room. Also and this might be a noob question but why are the supports 43″ apart I’d rather have it a bit tighter like 40″ so the bar has more tolerance room side to side. Maybe what I’m after is a custom designed rack but that’s a huge hassle so I’m thinking of up grading to a R-4 unless you have suggestions. I’m also a very young 55, and only been training since Sept 2014. Thanks for the great reviews and site.

    • jburgeson February 5, 2015, 2:27 pm

      Hey Paul, the answer is no, they don’t need 43″. Rogue’s R3 can be ordered with either 24″ or 30″ cross-members, giving you either a 30″ or 36″ deep rack. It’s funny you ask this, I am expecting a package today from Rogue… I ordered the R3 cross-members for my R4; I’m officially shortening my rack to make some more room. The R4 is a nice rack, and I’ve had it for three years now and have loved it, but it is bigger than I need since I use spotter arms vs the pin safeties anyway. And yea, the pre-set saw teeth cups are really annoying =p

      Btw, I’m sure that Rogue would fabricate any size cross-members you wanted. I’m not sure how they charge for custom, but doesn’t hurt to ask if you want something in between the 30″ and 43″.

      • Paul February 5, 2015, 2:58 pm

        Thanks so much for the reply. I’ll save up my pennies and see if they can set me up with a custom rig.

  • George February 16, 2015, 6:04 am

    Can you post a picture of the R4 with the spotter arms as i am having trouble visualising how that would fit together.

    • jburgeson February 16, 2015, 10:17 am

      There’s a picture at the end of this article: http://www.garage-gyms.com/working-with-stall-mats-garage-gym/

      • Zach November 5, 2015, 6:54 pm

        I’m considering purchasing a power rack, R3 or R4. I noticed how you put the spotter arms in instead of the metal posts. What then distinguished the rack from say a squat stand like the S2?

        • jburgeson November 5, 2015, 7:56 pm

          I used the spotter arms inside the R4 because fiddling with those 50″ long pin and pipe safeties was a pain in the rear. I have since moved down to the R3 because the R4 is just too big for not having an storage capabilities. Waste of space, at least in my garage. I wouldn’t have switched if I had more space for it though.

          I still think that half racks are a better use of space since they have on-board plate storage without taking up any more space than the R4 does. The exception is for guys squatting 800 pounds and/or wanting to attach a monolift attachment.

          Oh, and with the R3; especially the 24″ model, the pin and pipe is not big deal. No spotter arms for that. It’s just the R4 and R6 with so much space between uprights. Not fun lining up that pin.

  • john March 3, 2015, 7:41 am

    I want to buy the rogue fitness rml 390f rack but I worry about kipping pullups cause I believe it will move-slide-.what’s your opinion and what do you believe about flat foot racks

    • jburgeson March 3, 2015, 10:29 am

      Yeah it’ll probably shift a little. It’s got such a small footprint for a rack that doesn’t bolt down. I think flat footed racks are more for benching/squatting type lifts for those who absolutely cannot anchor down the rack. I think I’ve seen that on some of Rogue’s rack descriptions that they recommend anchored racks for kips. That said, the more you weigh it down, the less it’ll slide around.

      With my first rack, I avoided anchoring for a couple months because I didn’t want to deal with it, but eventually I bolted it down. Pull ups even move racks, so does re-racking a bar, and dips. If I couldn’t anchor something for some reason, I’d probably personally go with something like the Monster squat stands (or similar). Huge rubber feet, large footprint, and centered pull-up bar.

  • Bill August 13, 2016, 11:32 pm

    Just bought a house after renting for ages. I have no experience with mounting to wall or mounting to concrete garage floor. I’ve been debating whether to go with R3 fold back or R4 power rack. Do you have any opinion on what causes less damage to house once removed? Basically what is easier to patch up if I ended up selling house. Thank you for time.

    • jburgeson August 13, 2016, 11:50 pm

      Bill it’s sort of a matter of opinion. A wall mounted rack is going to have some pretty big holes in the wall from the lag bolts. Drywall can always be patched though. Anchoring a rack down will create some fairly large holes in the foundation, but that too can be patched/filled. Technically you don’t have to drill into either – you can mount an R4 to a platform, or you can look at something like the HR-2. If the foldaway racks meet your needs, then a squat stand or half rack will as well because folding racks don’t really offer much in the way of accessory options anyway.

  • Tayo Ajayi October 13, 2016, 5:26 am

    Great site! Very comprehensive, informational and very helpful. Based on your reviews on the R4, it’s looking pretty solid and attractive but I couldn’t help but notice that it is desperately lacking storage horns.
    Can these be fitted as additional accessories?

    • jburgeson October 13, 2016, 9:06 am

      You can add them, but they get in the way. Storage horns and generally reserved for power racks with a third pair of uprights, and half racks.

  • Lee January 3, 2017, 10:37 pm

    I just have enough space for a 90″ Rack. I’m 5’8″ and i would like to know if the bar is high enough for me to do pull-ups with out having to bend my knees, or get in an awkward form. Thanks man!

    • jburgeson January 4, 2017, 12:32 am

      You should be able to. You’re 68″ tall and the pull-up bar is usually a couple inches lower than the total height of the rack, so we’ll say 88″ off the ground. That’s 20″ of clearance over your head, and while your arms are going to be longer than 20″, you’ll see if you put your hands above your head that most of your upper arms are still below the top of your head. Even if you have long arms for your height and your feet can technically touch the ground, it won’t be by much.

      Technically you can easily confirm this simply by getting a friend to measure your total height while reaching both arms above your head in roughly the same width as you’d take for a pull-up.

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